Pic 1: view of the Virupaksha temple from my room in Padma Guest House,Hampi
After a quick breakfast of Toast, Omelets and Juice we were on our way. We planned to stay about 3 days in Hampi. We decided we would go for an organized sightseeing for half the time and then would spend a day or two doing our own thing. We decided to go around in an Auto to see all the Major Places of Interest (Rs 700, 2days, 5 hours /day)
First stop of the day was Hemakuta Hill. This is not one of the tallest hills in Hampi. But this hilltop and its slops offer a splendid view of the sprawling ruins site. This hill is sprinkled generously with a large number of temples, archways and pavilions. The whole of the hill was fortified with tall wide stonewalls, the ruined remains of which can be still be seen. Once you have reached (about 15 minutes climb) the top, it’s almost a flat expanse of rocky sheet with occasional ups and downs. Hemakuta Hill is the best place in Hampi to see the sunset; and not as tedious to reach the top say compared to the Matanga Hill nearby. A beautiful Place for photography lovers.
pic 2: On top of Hemakuta temple,Hampi
pic 3: Hemakuta Hill,Hampi
pic 4: Rocky landscape of hemakuta Hill,Hampi
We visited the giant Monothilic statue of the Kadalekalu Ganesha on the Hill. It was remarkable. Seeing the multitude of ruins all around gave a feeling of awe and wonder.
We then made our way to a series of Jain temples on top of the Hemakuta Hill. Brilliant.
A word on the climate. Hampi becomes scorching hot in the months of March –June. Thankfully for us after a hot first day, the rest of the days were cloudy and cold.
Next stop was the Sasivekalu (mustard seed) Ganesha called so because of the resemblance. This is located on the southern foothill of the Hemakuta Hill.
pic 5: Sasivekala ganesha hill,Hampi
Next stop was the Krishna temple. This is one of the must see sites in Hampi. The carvings are especially spectacular with the Yalis (the mythical lion) on the pillars and the entrances to the temple hall flanged with impressive carvings of elephant balustrades. Many small shrines and pillared halls adorn the campus. The temple kitchen is located at the south east of the main shrine. The main tower at the east is an impressive sight with numerous carvings on it (now the tower is under restoration work). You can see the carvings of the 10 incarnations of Lord Vishnu in this temple. This is one of the few temples where the epic stories carved on the walls of the tower. This is fairly an intact specimen of a Vijayanagara era temple.
pic 6: Krishna temple,Hampi
Further east outside the temple you can see a long hall like structure. On the right (south) of it are the banana plantations.
pic 7: Banana plantations and ruins,Hampi
The left area is mostly a rocky landscape. This was actually the high street (the chariot street) once led to the temple. The long pavilions were shops in the market street.
pic 8: market street,hampi
If you walk along these long structures, you would reach the impressive temple pond with structures around and at the middle of the tank. The temple tank is now not in use. The nearby agricultural places use water from the tank. The chariot street mentioned in fact terminates at a series of wide steps in front of the main temple campus, probably the only such chariot street in Hampi.
Next on the agenda was a rocky outcrop. There are two huge rocks called as the two sisters. Amazing the way these rocks are positioned.
pic 9: Bro @ The two sisters rocky outcrop,Hampi
We next went to the Lakshmi Narasimha Temple. This is the largest statue in Hampi. Sometimes this is referred as Ugra Narasimha (i.e. Narasimha in its terrifying form). The protruding eyes and the facial expression are the basis for this name.
pic 10:Mom and dad,UgraNarsimha ,Hampi
An idol of Lord Shiva, known as Badavalinga, is situated in the immediate vicinity. The 12 feet tall lingam carved out of shiny black granite rises out of a shallow pool of clear water.
Next was the Underground Shiva Temple. For some curious reasons, this temple dedicated for Lord Siva was built many meters below the ground level.
pic 11: Underground shiva temple, Hampi
For this reason, almost all the time the sanctum and the core parts of the temple are under water, restricting entry to the inner areas. A water cannel system too is visible around the main temple. But this canal is dry and you can walk down to a point from where it’s impossible to go further. There is a small temple for Siva’s consort too near the mail shrine.
We had some Coconut water to gain some respite from the heat.
We next made our way to the Royal Enclosure. This fortified area had been the seat of power of the fallen empire. Sprawling over many hundreds square meters, this fortified area is scattered with a number of interesting relics.
pic 16: Royal enclosure,Hampi
The most imposing structure in this area is the Mahanavami Dibba or the Dassera Platform or the ‘House of Victory’ .
pic 17:Mahanavami Dibba,Hampi
King’s Audience Hall or the 100 Pillared Hall is located within the enclosure in the northwest area. Stepped tank is located in the southeast area.
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pic 18:the stepped tank,Hampi
Adjacent to this is another tank used as a bathing area. Further at the southwest corner is another huge swimming pool style tank (now empty) is located.
The underground chamber is located somewhere between the King’s Audience hall and the Stepped Tank.
Apart from these the Royal enclosure area is doted with numerous relics of buildings, crisscrossing aqueducts supplying water to these water bodies etc. Practically the royal enclosure area is a wide-open ground with little shelters inside
Moving on we made our way to the Hazara Rama Temple. This is not a huge temple by Hampi’s yardstick. But this temple at the heart of the royal area has some peculiarities. Firstly it had been functioning as a private temple for the king, or at the most, the royal family. The importance of this temple can be judged from its nodal location in the royal area. Your paths to various locations within the citadel concur at a corner of this temple.
Probably this is the only temple in the capital with its external walls decorated with bas-reliefs mentioned above. And the temple got its name Hazara Rama (a thousand Rama) Temple owing to this multitude of these Ramayana panels on its walls.
pic 19:the ramayana panels on the wall of hazara rama temple,Hampi
A sprawling lawn located at the north of this temple is an easy landmark you can spot from a distance.
The final stop of the morning tour was the Queens Bath. For some mysterious reasons this was called as the queen’s bath. But in all probability this was a royal pleasure complex for the king and his wives.
pic 20: Inside the queen's bath,Hampi
We then headed off for lunch to another of Hampi’s treasures. Mango Tree Restaurant is situated in the middle of banana groves and Mango trees. Stare dreamily over the magnificent view of the Tungabhadra as you eat your food sitting on the floor leaning against the wall. Magnificient.
pic 21: Mango tree restaurant ,Hampi
pic 22: views from the Mango tree restaurant,Hampi
pic 23:Inside the mango tree restaurant,Hampi
We headed back to the hotel to escape the afternoon heat. We dozed for a couple of hours before we headed off to Hemakuta Hill to catch the sunset. Hampi has some of the most magnificent sunsets in India. The background of rocky boulders ruins et all make for some great photography moments.
pic 24:Sunset at hemakuta hill,hampi
After watching the magnificent orange sunsets we headed down to the most famous landmark of Hampi, the Virupaksha Temple.
In front is a long bazaar called the Hampi Bazaar which is similar to any temple town in India. Hampi being a world Heritage site attracts a lot of foreigners.
Virupaksha temple is the oldest and the principal temple in Hampi. This temple is located on the south bank of the river Tungabadra, just next to where the local bus drops you. This area in general has been an important pilgrimage centre for the worshipers of lord Shiva. Virupaksha temple is equally sort after by the tourists and pilgrims. The temple Elephant Lakshmi is a big favorite of the People here.
After a dinner of Dosas we headed off to hotel for a well deserved rest.
2) 21 th March ,2008 –Friday
The weather changed dramatically today. It became cool and cloudy. It was a great beginning.
We left early after having breakfast to continue our exploration of Hampi.
First stop of the day was the Zenana Enclosure. Zenana enclosure was a secluded area reserved for the royal women. This walled harem houses many interesting highlights.
pic 25: The Zenana enclosure, Hampi
The major attraction is the Lotus Mahal located at the southeast corner. As the name suggests, you would enter into a sprawling compound with a mud road running through the middle of the compound. Probably the only thing you eyes catch soon when you are inside is the pastel colored Lotus Mahal at the far right corner.
pic 26: Mom n dad @ the lotus Mahal,Hampi
It’s a two-storied arched pavilion. The whole area was the private enclosure for the royal women folks. Three watchtowers can be seen at the corners of the enclosed area. You can spot these two storied towers close to the southeast, northeast and northwest corners. You would come across the remains of huge fortification walls at a number places in Hampi. This had been primarily built as the protection barrier to a wealthy capital area. Next were the Elephant stables. One among the few least destroyed structures in Hampi, Elephant Stable is a major tourist attraction. This long building with a row of domed chambers was used to ‘park’ the royal elephants.
pic 27: @ the elephant stables,Hampi
pic 28: bro and I on the lawns of the elephant stables
We spent some time at the Tungabadra River. The river flowed merrily on.
pic 29: The tunghabadra river
We next visited the most famous temple of Hampi, the vittala temple.
As the epicenter of Hampi's attractions, Vittala Temple is the most extravagant architectural showpiece of Hampi. No amount of words can explain this spectacle. The temple is built in the form of a sprawling campus with compound wall and gateway towers. There are many halls, pavilions and temples located inside this campus. The famous stone chariot can be seen here.
We spent a couple of hours at this marvelous architectural wonder.
pic 30 : The entrance of vittala temple,Hampi
pic 31: the musical pillared hall @ vittala temple,Hampi
pic 32: The Landscape of Vittala temple,Hampi
pic 33: in front of the famous stone chariot,vittala temple,Hampi
pic 34: Vittala temple and Me,Hampi
Soon it was time to explore the other side of the River. We caught the boat across the river(Rs 5) and reached Anegudi.
We had to engage a separate auto (Rs 300,3 hrs) there as auto’s cannot cross the river.
The ambience of Anegondi is refreshing for the ones who like a peaceful place to soak themselves in a rural ambient and tour at their own pace.
pic 35: temples,rivers and goats:on the other side of the tunghabadra
pic 36: green green everywhere,anegudi
pic 37: the green fields around anegudi
Attractions include Anjeneyadri (the hill top Hanuman temple), Pampa Sarovar (a tiny shrine and a sacred tank), Gagan Mahal (a small old palace).
pic 38:The Pampa sarovar at anegudi
The best place was the hanuman temple .We had to climb millions of steps to reach the top. My Mom and Dad did not try. My brother ran his way to the top and I huffed and Puffed behind him.
The views from the top were absolutely brilliant. Words cannot describe it. Perhaps the pictures do it more justice.
pic 40: Bro on Hanuman hill,anegudi
pic 41: Rocky landscape of Hampi from top of Hanuman hill
It clouded over and looked like it was going to rain so we ran down the mountain.
We made our way back to Virapur Gadde where the heavens opened up .We had brilliantly green fields in front of us as we sheltered in a shop. The fields in the rain made for amazing viewing.
We crossed the river back and had a very late lunch at the Mango tree restaurant.
As usual we were off to Hemakuta Hill to catch the sunset. It was cloudy today so the sunset was not as spectacular. But I managed to capture some good twilight pics of the ruins.
pic 42: Ruins and Landscapes,Hampi
pic 43: Virupaksha temple landscape,Hampi
pic 44: the twilight foto of the virupaksha temple and surroundings.
Dinner was followed by haggling with taxi drivers for the one day trip planned for the next day to Badami, Aihole, Pattadakal and back to Hampi by night.
3) 22 th March ,2008 –Saturday
We woke early and were ready to leave by 6.30 am. Badami is about 160 km from Hampi. Aihole and Pattadakal are close to Badami.
We had arranged for a Tata Indica for the round trip Travel+ sightseeing, (Rs 2200+150)
First stop of the day was the Tungabhadra Dam. The weather was pleasant today too with a hint of rain. We enjoyed a brisk walk up to the dam but there was no water.
pic 45: The tunghabadra dam
Today was Holi. It proved to be a nuisance as in regular intervals rowdy groups of noisy revelers stopped the car and demanded money. I grew pretty angry after a point and even had a fight.
First stop was the Banshankari temple. Pretty ordinary and not worth a visit.
pic 46: sunflower fields enroute to badami
Next we went on to the caves at Badami.It was an amazing place.
pic 47 : Badami caves
The first set of caves is a group of four on a hill adjacent to the Bhutanata tank, connected through flights of stairs.
The first cave dating back to the 5th century CE has gigantic carvings of Shiva in bas relief. It enshrines a Shivalingam. In the adjacent wall there is a carving of the cosmic dance of Shiva Nataraja depicted with eighteen arms. There are also reliefs of Ganapati, Shanmukha and Mahishasuramardhini.
The second temple bears images of Vishnu . It is reached through a flight of 64 stairs from the first one. On its celing, are carvings of Vishnu on Garuda and several other scenes from the puranas.
The third rock cut temple is reached from the 2nd temple through a flight of 60 steps. It is a 100 feet dep cave, with inscriptions dating this Vishnu temple to 578 CE during, the period of Kiritivarma Chalukya. Here there are carved images of the Narasimha and Trivikrama avataras of Vishnu. There are also murals depicting the divine marriage of Shiva and Parvati.
Further up, is a Jain rock cut temple dedicated to the Tirtankara Adinatha with inscriptions dating back to the 12th century
There is the magnificent tank near the temple which is a brilliant shade of green and has healing properties. Other temples dot the landscape.
pic 48 : The bhoothnatha lake in a lovely emarald colour,badami
We had lunch at the Badami court restaurant, Badami.
We next headed off to a small temple called Mahakuta. This was a gem. This temple is not very popular on the tourist circuit as many do not know about it. But this turned out to be a gem. It was the kind of temple I like, all old world charm. You can imagine yourself 1000 years back if you want to.
pic 49: The Mahakoota temple
We headed off to Pattadakal next. Pattadakal is 22 km from Badami, the capital of the Chalukya dynasty of Southern India, who built the temples in the seventh and eighth centuries. There are ten temples including a Jain sanctuary surrounded by numerous small shrines and plinths. Four temples were built in Dravidian style, four in nagara style of Northern India and the Papanatha temple in mixed style.
The group of monuments in Pattadakal was designated a World Heritage Site in 1987.
Quite frequently in my travel blog I run out of adjectives. As I said earlier,I hope the pictures do it more justice because the place was absolutely amazing.
pic 50: Pattadakal temples
pic 51: bro in front of pattadakal group of temples
Here the best temples of the style, the Virupaksha and the Mallikarjuna are seen. These were built by the queens of Vikramaditya II (734-44) in memory of his victorious march against Kanchi, the Pallava capital, and the temples were named by them after themselves as the Lokeshwara (by Lokadevi) and Trailokeshwara (by Trailokadevi), which came to be known as the Virupaksha and the Mallikarjuna respectively. The two magnificent temples with their nicely engraved lively figures on walls and the massive square pillars are in sand stone. Pattadakal itself was known as Kisuvolal (`Red Town') as the sand stone here is reddish in colour.
The Sangameshwara, Chandrashekhara, Jambuling and Kadasideeshwara are the other major temples here, and Pattadakal has also a Jaina basadi of Rashtrakuta times with two beautiful elephants in this front. The Galaganath here which is dilapidated, has caurvilinear (rekhanagara) shikhara.
A note on all the places on this trip: As most of them are world heritage sights these places are beautifully maintained with immaculate lawns and sign posts with descriptions. Really admirable.
The final stop of the day was Aihole. Aihole has its own historical significance and is called as cradle of Hindu rock architecture. Many temples and caves of historical importance can be found at Aihole. The roadside was littered liberally with temples. The most famous is the semi circular Durga temple and the Lad temple.
pic 52:Family @ the durga temple,Aihole
We also visited a museum which was unimpressive. It started raining now. It was about 5 pm. We decided to head back to Hampi.
We reached Hampi after an uneventful car ride by about 8.30.
Dinner followed by sleep.
4) 23 th March ,2008 –Sunday
Got up late today. A leisurely day was on the agenda. After a big breakfast we headed off to Virupaksha temple again.
pic 53: The virupaksha temple on a rainy day
Spent some time at this place.
After a small walk we made our way back to the hotel.
Headed back to hospet to catch our trains
pic 54: The rain washed roads on the way back from Hospet
Family left by a 3 pm train back to Hyderabad.
I spent some time reading. Hospet has a lovely railway station and I spent the evening reading on an old bench. The joys of life.
pic 55: Hospet Railway station
Caught the Hampi express back to Bangalore @ 7.30 pm.
Reached Bangalore by 6 am.
Hampi deserves the title of “Poetry in Stone”
References:
http://www.hampi.in/
Lots of fishing boats lined the beach.
